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Monday, April 18, 2011

When in Rome, Head to Hostaria Da Corrado

Hardly noticeable, hidden in a tiny storefront north of the Piazza Santa Maria in Rome's hip Trastevere quarter, Da Corrado is like an unmade bed--a little unattractive to look at but warm and comfortable under the covers.

As we enter, the moist air--coming from a kitchen concealed behind a steamed-up, glass partition--gives way to inviting smells of garlic and herbs. The dining room is basic with white-washed walls adorned with framed photographs of past patrons (celebrities, perhaps?) and gleaming tile floors.

With a cigarette in one hand, the waiter slaps a piece of butcher paper on our small, weathered table. He returns a moment later with two short wine glasses and an ashtray. (Don't let his gruff exterior and deep voice intimidate you; he's really a nice guy, happy to explain unfamiliar words and dishes. Although if you question him too much, he'll decide what to order for you!)

From his short, verbal listing of the menu, we choose our first course: bucatini all'amatriciana, a Roman favorite of long, hollow macaroni showcased in a tomato sauce flavored with bacon and white wine, and a simple dish of ravioli stuffed with spinach and ricotta cheese, then topped with fresh tomato sauce.

All afternoon, locals from this working class neighborhood come and go--businessmen, construction workers, students, and even four old ladies who consume two liters of house wine easily. We could too--the white, dry Frascati is light on the palate, but we show control and order a half-carafe.


Follow this map to Da Corrado
 The second course rivals the first with spezzatino bianco--tender chunks of veal smothered in a white wine sauce, accompanied by lots of roasted potatoes--and pizzaiola, a zesty dish of thinly sliced veal simmered in a spicy tomato sauce. Other simple choices include several Roman favorites like coda alla vaccinara, a typical dish of oxtail stew, and trippa alla romana, tender tripe in tomato sauce.

Da Corrado is the best deal we found in Rome. Though it lacks style and panache, it's brimming with local color--no tourists here, just simple Roman food, dirt cheap.


Hostaria Da Corrado
Via della Pelliccia, 39
Phone: +39 06 580 6004
Closed Sunday
Approximate cost of our meal: 30 euro

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