Getting to Know Vecchia Osteria del Gelsomino in Rome

Beautiful exposed brick archways in del Gelsomino's dining room.

Vecchia Osteria del Gelsomino, located on a quiet side street not far from the Vatican, has a rich history dating back more than 100 years. In those days, explains current owner Lorenzo Mariani, the eatery wasn't much more than a tavern, a local gathering spot where old men played cards and drank wine late into the evening. Mariani's own family has deep roots to del Gelsomino, too. For instance, his mother-in-law grew up in the neighborhood during the 1930s. When she was a little girl, he explains, her mother often sent her to find her father to bring him home for dinner. More often than not, the little girl found him at del Gelsomino, or "The Jasmine" as it was called for the flower medallion hanging proudly over the entrance. Years later, Mariani remembers coming to the osteria with his family. "I used to eat here as a child when Signoria Maria owned the place," he says. "We were always treated like family."

When Mariani became del Gelsomino's proprietor (perhaps it was fate?) 15 years ago, he and his co-owner embraced "la cucina romana," or traditional Roman cooking. "Ours is a true and traditional Roman kitchen," he explains. "We prepare only fresh dishes. The same as a mother would do for her family." To that end, everything at del Gelsomino is prepared from scratch without the use of a microwave or freezer. And although the menu boasts an abundance of Roman specialties such as pasta amatriciana, coda alla vaccinara (a savory oxtail stew), homemade gnocchi (on Thursdays, of course) and pollo alla romana (chicken sautéed with colorful peppers and tomatoes), the entrées are at the discretion of the chef depending on the season and availability of ingredients. Therefore, every day the dishes are different. In winter, for example, you may find orcchiette with broccoli while the menu in spring is sure to offer fresh Roman artichokes and abbacchio alla cacciatora (a classic lamb dish infused with lots of garlic and rosemary).

With a keen eye towards freshness, Mariani shops daily with much of his produce coming from the surrounding hills of Rome; his poultry from local farming cooperatives. He uses only the best beef from Danish or Irish pastures. His pasta comes from Gragnano, a small town tucked in the foothills near Naples and said to produce the best dried pasta in all of Italy. His olive oil? Extra virgin, of course.

Mariani's culinary efforts and attention to detail are deliciously apparent in every bite of his food! After a long morning of touring the Vatican, be sure to stop by del Gelsomino to sample some true Roman cuisine.

Vecchia Osteria del Gelsomino
Via del Gelsomino, 69
Rome
Telephone: 06 630 750
del Gelsomino's Website
Google map

Vecchia Osteria del Gelsomino is just one of 80 trattorie and osterie featured in Chow Italy: Eat Well, Spend Less (Rome 2013).

What Should I Eat When I Visit Rome?

More than half of Latium’s (one of twenty regions that makes up Italy) five-and-a-half million people live in the capital city of Rome where culinary trends are created and where eating habits seem to revolve around days or events of the week. If it’s Tuesday, for instance, polpette, those light-as-a-feather meatballs are the go-to dish. While on Thursday gnocchi, tiny dumplings tossed in grated parmigiano cheese are sure to be il piatto del giorno (the special of the day) at many trattorie. But on Saturday, the aroma of trippa alla romana (tripe simmered in tomato sauce) catches everyone’s attention.

The region of Latium prides itself on its vegetables, too. The countryside just surrounding the Eternal City is mostly volcanic land, and the soil, rich in minerals and nutrients, enhances the appearance and taste of everything that grows. Though fields of peas, beans, celery, and lettuce blanket the nearby Alban Hills, the artichoke (carciofo) is the most popular with Romans. Served deep fried or “Jewish style” (alla giudia) or braised with garlic and then anointed in olive oil (alla romana), they’re always delicious and inexpensive.

Typical trattoria in Rome.

And what about pasta? Yes, of course! Romans take their pasta seriously. There are several specialties that spotlight this ubiquitous staple that every visitor must-try including: amatriciana (tossed with onions, guanciale or pork cheek but with a taste similar to smoked bacon, tomatoes, and white wine), carbonara (a rich, bacon-like cream sauce), cacio e pepe (a simple pairing of grated cheese and freshly-cracked pepper), and gricia (dressed with guanciale, pecorino cheese and pepper). Together these four dishes are the bedrock of a Roman’s diet.

“But where’s the beef?” you may ask. It’s here alright but just not in the form of thick rib-eye steaks. Instead, Romans are known for their slowly braised beef dishes such as coda alla vaccinara or oxtail stew, and other lesser-cuts of meats such as the ever-popular trippa alla romana, or tripe braised in tomato sauce. Lamb (agnello/ abbacchio) is also a favorite and comes roasted, al forno, or small, grilled chops, abbacchio a scottadito. Saltimbocca alla romana, veal scaloppini topped with a thin slice of prosciutto and sage leaves, is a must-try as well.

And although pizza is a Neapolitan specialty, don’t discount the pie in Rome. A thin, crisp crust topped with a variety of fresh ingredients and quickly baked in a wood-burning oven will dazzle your taste buds. It’s true heaven on a plate. Buy it by the slice, “al taglio,” at a take-out stand or order a small, plate-size pie for yourself at one of many fantastic pizzerias throughout the city.

Rome is the best city to start an Italian holiday. The friendly, casual nature of Romans makes dining and touring a delight. In summer, trattoria owners pull tables from hot, stuffy dining rooms out to the sidewalks. People parade by and seek out old friends. If none can be found, they’ll make new ones from the diners enjoying the balmy evening and home-style meal.

Excerpted from the recently-released e-book, Chow Italy: Eat Well, Spend Less (Rome 2013).  

Rome's Favorite Pasta Dishes

Romans take their pasta very seriously. Sure, they like a good risotto ever now and then but pasta makes up the foundation of their daily diet. Furthermore, Romans have their favorite pasta recipes, regional dishes that they proudly call their own.

If you're headed to the Eternal City, here's a primer on the Fab Four, a handful of quintessential Roman pastas (or primi piatti) that you'll find on nearly every trattoria or osteria menu. Try them all--often--and you'll still never have the same taste sensation twice.

Cacio e Pepe: 

Literally translated, cacio e pepe means "cheese and pepper." And for good reason as the recipe calls for pasta, grated pecorino-romano cheese (never parmigiano-reggiano) and freshly cracked pepper. That's it. That's the recipe. But when this simple pairing is done well, it's sublime. Prepared by the wrong hands or worse, using substitutions (or--gasp--adding an off-the-cuff addition like garlic) and you might as well order pizza instead.

Gricia:

The least know of the four but certainly not any less delicious, pasta alla gricia is also a simple recipe. Yet it's the combination of the right ingredients that make all the difference. First up is lightly pan-fried guanciale, a type of Italian bacon made from the pig's cheek or jowl. Not to be confused with pancetta, guanciale has a stronger, more intense pork flavor yet a more subtle texure. Gricia also calls for pecorino-romano (again, never parmigiano), a bit of the starchy pasta water to bind it all together, giving it a "saucy" finish, and it's ready!

Bucatini all'Amatriciana:

Traditionally made with bucatini (a thick spaghetti with a hollow center), amatriciana is named for the town where it originated--Amatrice--an agricultural village northeast of Rome. Like gricia, amatriciana is made with guanciale and freshly grated pecorino cheese but amatriciana adds a bit of tomato to the dish for a more rounded, robust character. Next to carbonara listed below, amatriciana is one of the most well known and beloved dishes in Italy.

Spaghetti alla Carbonara: silky and sublime!

Spaghetti alla Carbonara:

When most of us think of Rome, we think of the Coliseum, St. Peter's basilica, and of course, carbonara. But did you know that the real-deal is simply made with eggs, guanciale or pancetta, and pecorino? That's right--there's no cream in it at all! Instead, the secret to its silky texture is in its preparation. It's the proper technique that can turn this dish into a masterpiece. You see, when the pasta is finished cooking, it's immediately tossed in a bowl where a few eggs, the cheese, and lightly-fried guanciale are patiently waiting. It's the heat from the pasta that "cooks" the eggs and delicately coats the strands of spaghetti.

Pizza in Campo de' Fiori

Forno Campo de’ Fiori

Campo dei Fiori, 22
Telephone: +39 06 6880 6662

Closed Saturday in July and August
http://www.fornocampodefiori.com

Google map

Forno (oven in Italian) serves up some of the best pizza in all of Rome. If you’re hungry and find yourself in the Campo de' Fiori, a tourist mecca with few low-cost eating options, then cue up! This tiny take-out shop is always crowded and hence chaotic. The pizza is served by weight. Try their melt-in-your-mouth fiori dei zucca or zucchini pizza. About €2 a slice. Panini, freshly baked bread and sweets are also available. 

Check out their pizza and bread-making video. It will make your mouth water.

This Week in Italy--The Best From the Web

Train travel is a great way to see Italy, and a recent New York Times article How to Save Money on Train Trips in Italy is packed with loads of tips for saving a Euro or two this winter.

What's the secret to a long life? Beats me but the folks in Campodimele, a small, hilltop village halfway between Rome and Naples may have the answer says British journalist, Tracey Lawson. Her interview with a CNN reporter, A. Powlowski will make you want to head south to soak up the peace and solitude.

Colman Andrews, the co-founder of Saveur magazine and editorial director of the thedailymeal.com, talks about his latest cookbook, The Country Cooking of Italy, a collection of more than 230 regional recipes.

Emily Storms offers three travel tips when visiting Rome. (Hint: one includes bringing your own toilet paper!) And blogger James Brandon offers nine tips for the photographer heading to Italy.

Choosing where to eat while traveling can sometimes be overwhelming. After all there are so many restaurants but not enough time to sample them all. Plus, how do you know which ones are good? Why Go Italy offers 6 of the Best Places to Eat in Italy. (Photos and prices included.)

Live life to its fullest! Book that trip to Italy today!

Buon appetito!

This Week in Italy--The Best From The Web

If you're traveling to Italy, your iPhone could prove to be your best travel companion as the editors of Slow Italy explain in this informative but short piece on 10 Useful iPhone Apps When Traveling in Italy.

Food and wine writer, Bruce Palling, muses about the allure of Tuscany and the joys of its cuisine. He reminisces on past meals throughout the region from a three-star Michelin restaurant in a Florentine palazzo to a mom-and-pop butcher shop cum trattoria in Chianti.

Writer Robert St. John offers the best do-and-don't advice on finding a good restaurant while traveling in Italy, and suggests two superior eateries in Rome.

Heading to Milan? Then check out David Lebovitz's blog post where he tempts the reader with fabulous photography of every treat imaginable the city has to offer plus a few from Lake Como. Don't read while hungry!

The fall is a great time to travel to Italy as blogger Robin Locker Lacey explains in her informative post, Tips for an Off-Season Trip.

In case you haven't heard, Cinque Terre, that quintessential slice of Italian heaven along the Ligurian coast, suffered greatly following huge floods during a heavy rainstorm at the end of October. Follow the clean-up progress with blogger Kate of Little Paradiso.

And finally, if you don't know what to cook for dinner tonight, check out a step-by-step guide to making homemade pasta with the Italian Dish.

Have a great week!

Renaissance Remembered: Trattoria La Buca delle Fate in Pienza

The beautifully designed Trattoria La Buca delle Fate wins my vote for one of the most charming trattorie in northern Italy. Located in the quintessential Renaissance hamlet of Pienza, nestled in the rolling hillsides halfway between Montalcino and Montepulciano in southeast Tuscany, La Buca makes you feel as though you're dining in a royal castle. In fact, it's housed in the restored 16th-century Palazzo Gonzaga, the former summer residence to the famous Renaissance family and art patrons that ruled Mantua for nearly 400 years. Although renovated to accommodate a modern kitchen, the dining room retains a palatial mood. Large, crumbling stone columns shoulder exposed brick archways. The cross-ribbed ceiling is as high as a cathedral's, and old-world details abound from primitive lanterns to wrought-iron, padlocked gates. Purely magical.

To start this banquet in proper style, we order Nobile Pantano, the local red wine with a pungent, dry flavor. It's just one of many from an impressive wine list. For our first course, our waitress, Rosana, suggests we try a few house specialties--pici della casa and zuppa di pane. Both are traditional peasant dishes of the region and don't disappoint. I sample the former, freshly hand-rolled pasta paired with a hearty cinghiale (wild boar) sauce but the di funghi porcini looks tempting as well. Kevin is content with the latter, a tasty combination of crusty bread soaked in a market-fresh tomato soup. Other primo piatto include tagliatelle al ragu and gnocchi di patate.



Follow the map to Trattoria La Buca

"Try the turkey," whispers Rosana when she magically appears after we've wiped our plates clean. "It's very fresh." The petto di tacchino, thick slices of turkey breast in its own savory juice, is indeed wonderful and a tribute to Tuscany's talent for roasting fowl. Kevin opts for the coniglio in umido, a delicate rabbit stew in a rich brown gravy. If only we can return another evening so we can try the mouth-watering bistecca ai ferri, Tuscany's famous grilled steak, and pollo arrosto, spit-roasted chicken. Both dishes, sizzling and fragrant, pass our table in route to other diners.

Although we're full, we're shown the dessert cart and my favorite after-dinner treat--tiramisù. Translated it means, "pick me up," and with its espresso-soaked sponge cake and fluffy mascarpone-cream filling, it does just that. Then, from beneath the cart, Rosana pulls out an unmarked bottle and motions for our glasses. She fills them halfway with a strong-smelling, orange liquid.

"Vin santo?" I ask.

She smiles and proudly nods. "It's our own, made here in town." The sweet, Italian desert wine is a perfect addition to the afternoon. Kevin and I linger at La Buca's for another hour, content as well-fed royals of long ago. When the bill arrives, it's a mere pittance, well within the commoner's budget.

Trattoria La Buca delle Fate
Corso Il Rossellino, 38
Pienza
Telephone: +39-0578-748-272
Closed Monday
Approximate cost of our meal €36